Trimming and stitching machine



5 Sheets-Sheet 1 J. GALKIN TRIMMING AND STITGHING MACHINE Filed Oct. 28, 1937 Sept. 19, 1939.

JOSEPH GALKIN' INVENTOR.

A TTOIUVEY Se t. 19, EQBQ. 3 GALKIN 2,173,161

THINKING AND STITCHING MACHINE Filed 031:. 28, 1937 5 SheetsfiSheet 2 JUSEPH GALKIN mvmroa A TTORNEY Sept. 19, 1939. J. GALKJN TRIMMING AND STITCHING MACHINE Filed 001:. 28, 1937 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 JOSEPH GALKIN INVENTOR ATTORNEY I Sept. 19, 1939.

J. GALKIN 2,173,161

TRIMMING AND STITCHING MACHINE Filed Oct. 28, 1937 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 JOSEPH GALKIN INVENTOR.

ATTORNEY Sept. 19, 1939. J GALKm 2,173,161

TRIMMING AND STITC-HING MACHINE Filed Oct. 28, 1937 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 J as 78 53 i 53 X II I 37 I fl h v 40 p. 5 I

IJOSEPHGALKINI [NVENTOR ATTORNEY Patented Sept. 19, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 6 Claims.

This invention relates to sewing machines and particularly to a sewing machine provided with a rotary cutter whereby the work may be simultaneously stitched and trimmed.

An object of this invention is to provide a rotary trimming unit comprising an upper positively rotated rotary cutting element mounted in fixed bearings and a lower positively rotated and vertically movable roller cooperating therewith.

Another object of this invention'is to cause a pressure against the lower rotary element by a spring supported on the bed of the sewing ma chine and to transmit the pressure against the upper rotary cutting element.

Another object of this invention is to provide mechanism for mounting the rotary trimming unit in cooperating relation with a sewing machine having an oscillating loop taker actuated in parallel relation with the main actuating shaft.

Another object of this invention is to provide a pinking mechanism operating in conjunction with a sewing machinemaking two needle interlock stitching with a looper and without the necessity of repeatedly rewinding a bobbin.

Another object of this invention is to provide a combined trimming and stitching machine having a four-motion, feed mechanism and a rotary trimming mechanism and means for independently adjusting said mechanisms in timed relation.

With the above and other objects in view, the invention will be hereinafter more particularly described, and the combination and arrangement of parts will be shown in the accompanying'drawings and pointed out in the claims which form part of this specification.

Reference will now be had to the drawings, wherein like numerals of reference designate corresponding parts throughout the several views, in which:

Figure 1 is a front view of a sewing machine having our improved trimming mechanism embodied therein Figure 2 is an end view, partly in section.

Figure 3 is a fragmentary end view partly in section, the section being taken as on line 33 inFigure 5, and shows a clutch mechanism for driving the trimming member shafts with a stepby-step or intermittent movement.

Figure 4 is a sectional View, the section being taken as on line 44 in Figure 5, and shows brake mechanism for preventing reverse movement of the trimming member shafts.

Figure 5 is a plan view, partly in section on line with the upper surface of the work supporting base and showing the assembled parts beneath the overhanging arm.

Figure 6 is a side view of the trimming mechanism, on an enlarged scale.

Figure '7 is an enlarged bottom view of two interlock stitched layers of fabric.

Figure 8 is a top view of the two layers of fabric having a pinked edge and stitched with two rows of interlock stitching.

In the illustrated embodiment of the invention, the numeral Hi indicates a combined trimming and stitching machine comprising a bed ll having a main actuating shaft l2 rotatably mounted therein. The bed ll comprises a work supporting base I3. The machine comprises the usual standard 14 having an overhanging arm I5 with a head H5 at its free end. In the head I6 is journalled the usual reciprocatory needle-bar l1 carrying needles [8. The needle-bar is reciprocated by a lever l9 mounted on a pivot shaft 20.

A looptaker 2! is oscillated and cooperates with the needles to form straight line interlock stitching as is well known in the sewing machine art. The material worked upon is held down by a presser foot 22 resting on a cloth plate 23 secured to and above the work supporting base I3. The looper or loop-taker 2|, shown in Figure 1, is a conventional threaded looper of the four-motion type cooperating with the needles, having its, needle loop engaging and disengaging movements in a line transverse to the line of feed and its needle avoiding movements in the line of feed as shown in Patent No. 1,619,436.

The presser foot 22 is pivotally connected to a presser foot shank 24 by means of a pin 25. The shank 24 is secured to a presser bar 26 which is secured by a transverse arm 21 to a guide bar 28. A leaf spring 30 mounted in the head 16 is pressed down by a screw 3|. The leaf spring 30 bears on an arm 33 secured to the upper end of the guide bar 28. The guide bar 28 may be raised by means of a lever 29. The spring pressure on the guide bar 28 is transmitted through the arm 2'! to the presser bar 26 and the presser foot 22. It is to be noted that the presser foot 22 is designed for vertical sliding motion concomitantly with the feed dog 32, and that it also has a pivotal motion about the pin 25, and this pivotal mounting provides for rocking motions of the presser foot when passing over cross-seams.

The stitching mechanism comprises one looper thread and one or two needle threads. When two needles are used, they are closely spaced together so that the needle threads are only about one thirty-second of an inch apart. The line of stitching is somewhat stretchable and will not rip under conditions which cause lockstitch stitching to rip.

The trimming mechanism comprises a cutting Wheel 35 which cooperates with a roller 36, the outer periphery of which extends through an opening in the cloth plate 23 slightly above said plate. The cutting wheel 35 is secured to a shaft 31 rotatably mounted in bearings 38, 35 in a horizontally positioned housing plate 40 which is fastened to the bed I I. The roller 33 is secured to a shaft 34 mounted in a bearing 4| forming an extension of an arm 32. The arm 42 is pivotally mounted on a pin 43 in the housing plate 40.

Intermeshing gears 45 and 41' mounted respectively on the shafts 34 and 31' connect the cutting wheel 35 and roller 36 in rotary cooperating relation.

In order to hold the cutting wheel 35 in tensioned cutting relation against the outer periphery of the roller 35, I have provided a spring 58 which presses at one end against the roller arm 42 and at the other end against the bed H and this pressure is transmitted to the cutting wheel 35. An adjusting screw 59 threaded in the bed II has a hexagonal head 53 which reacts against the spring 48 and forces the roller 35 against the cutting wheel 35 and provides means for regulating the pressure therebetween.

A lock nut 5| serves for locking the screw 49 after adjusting. This adjustment of the screw 49 is such that the tension between the wheel 35 and roller 36 is sufiicient for cutting through two or more superposed layers of cloth or other fabric.

I have provided a lever 52 pivoted at 53 in bifurcated support 54 and having an eccentric lower end portion 6! in contact with a pin 82 having a head under which is mounted a spring 53. The spring causes the head to contact the eccentric portion 6! and supports the lever 52 in an inclined position as shown in Figure 6. By swinging the lever 52 to the front of the machine, the eccentric Gl forces the pin 52 against the roller arm 42 and forces the roller 35 out of engagement with the cutting wheel 35.

The thread carrying looper 2! is oscillated to give a needle avoiding movement thereto. Due to the oscillating loop motion whereby the looper passes successively in the front and in the rear of the needles, the pinking wheel has been mounted at the rear of the needles a distance sufiicient to clear the looper in its rearward motion.

It is desired that a positive rotary step-by-step driving motion be imparted to the shaft 31 of the cutting wheel 35 and to the roller 36 without lost motion. It is also desired that a longer or shorter step-by-step motion be had and modified at will within a considerable range of adjustment so as to synchronize the movement of the cutting wheel 35 with the feed-dog 32. For this purpose I employ an oscillatable clutching detent carrier 55 mounted within a casing 55, fixed to a shaft M, as best shown in Figure 3. A cover plate 51 having an arm 53 has been fastened to the clutching detent carrier 55. The arm 53 is pivotally connected at one end to a crank arm 55 which is operated by an adjustable eccentric E5. The eccentric GE) is integral with a slide 65 which is held in slidable relation in a guideway 66 in a collar 61. The eccentric 60 has an elongated slot 69 permitting sliding motion of the eccentric 8i] about the main shaft E2. The above described adjustable eccentric which imparts to the cutter 35 and roller 36 a one-way intermittent motion is old and well known.

In order to prevent reverse movement of the shafts 31 and 34 without lost motion, I have provided a braking detent carrier 15 mounted within the casing 56, as best shown in Figure 4. A cover plate 16 having an arm 11 has been fastened to the braking detent carrier 15. The arm 11 is secured to an extension 18 of the housing plate 40.

The clutch detent carrier 55 and the braking detent carrier E5 are mounted on the shaft 64 to work in opposite directions and may be in the form shown and described in Patent No. 1,985,406 issued to Nathan B. Galkin, dated December 25, 1934. Intermeshing gears H! and H mounted respectively on the shafts 3'! and 64 connect the cutting wheel 35 with the combined clutch and brake 12. The number of teeth on the gear H is three times the number of teeth on the gear 10 and this permits a cutting wheel of very small diameter to be actuated in timed relation with the feed dog 32.

The swing of the arm 59 imparts an intermittent rotation to the casing 56 and through a screw 19, shown in Figure 5, to the shafts 34 and 31.

The braking detent carrier being fixed to the sewing machine frame, causes the shaft 31 to be gripped at the end of each feeding movement without any lost motion or backlash at the cutting wheel 35.

By actuating a screw 81, Figure 2, the crank 88 is caused to move to or away from the center of the shaft l2 and causes an arm 89 to impart a larger or smaller swing to the stub shaft 90. Secured to the stub shaft 90 by a rocker frame 9| is a feed bar 92 which, through suitable connections imparts movements to the feed dog 32.

As best shown in Figure 5, the presser foot 22 has a transverse extension 44 in line with the cutting or pinking wheel 35 and this extension presses down the material to be trimmed or pinked and causes it to be fed to the wheel 35 in a flat and non-wrinkled condition.

An adjusting screw 80, shown in Figure 5, passes through the housing plate 40 and contacts with the roller arm 42 and serves for adjusting the roller axis in alinement with the wheel 35.

While I have shown my trimming mechanism as operating in conjunction with a sewing machine having one or two vertically reciprocating needles, I may incorporate this trimming mechanism in a sewing machine of the nature herein described and having a needle adapted to move back and forth transversely of the line of stitching in addition to its vertical reciprocating motion and make interlock zig-zag stitching and pinking in one operation.

As shown in Figures 1 and 5, I have provided a swinging frame 8 I, pivoted at 82, the said frame comprising the front portion of the work support ing base I3. The frame 81 may be swung forwardly to permit adjustment of the spring tension screw 49 for the roller 36 and for threadcontrol for the looper thread which has been shifted rearwardly to a point 83.

Figure 7 is a bottom view of two superposed layers of fabric 84 stitched with interlock stitching shown on a greatly enlarged scale, the two needle threads 81 being positioned inside the looper thread, and being interlocked with the looper thread 88.

Figure 8 is a top view of the two fabric layers 84 having a pinked edge 85 and two rows of interlock stitch needle threads 81.

I claim:

A sewing machine having in combination, a bed having a work-supporting base superposed in fixed relation thereon, a bracket-arm terminating in a solid head and over-hanging said work-supporting base, a needle-bar lever fulcrumed on said bracket-arm, a reciprocatory needle-bar journaled in said head and carrying a needle, an arm pivotally mounted upon said work supporting base, a roller carrying shaft journaled in said arm, a cutter carrying shaft mounted in spaced parallel relation with said roller shaft, said shafts being rotatably connected by intermeshing gears, said roller being resiliently mounted below said rotary cutter, and means threadably secured in said bed for tensioning said rotary cutter elements.

2. A sewing machine having in combination, a plurality of needles, a single looper cooperating with said needles, a bed having a work-supporting base superposed thereon, a bracket-arm terminating in a solid head and overhanging said work-supporting base, a needle-bar lever fulcrumed on said bracket-arm, a reciprocatory needle-bar journaled in said head and carrying needles, an arm pivotally mounted upon said work supporting base, a roller carrying shaft journaled in said arm, a cutter carrying shaft mounted in spaced parallel relation with said roller shaft, said shafts being rotatably connected by intermeshing gears, said roller being resiliently mounted below said rotary cutter, and means threadably secured in said bed for tensioning said rotary cutter elements.

3. In a sewing machine having a bed, a work supporting base and a main actuating shaft intermediate said bed and base, an overhanging arm carried by said bed, a rotary trimmer supported from said bed, an arm pivotally mounted below said base and carrying a rotary member, means for exerting pressure on said arm and against said trimmer, and means for rotating said trimmer including an adjustable eccentric on said main shaft.

4. In a combined sewing and pinking machine having an oscillating looper adapted for movement transverse of the line of stitching, a bed having a main actuating shaft therein, an overhanging arm carried by said bed, a pair of cooperating rotary members positioned one above the other in spaced relation rearwards of the needle of the machine, the upper rotary member being adapted for pinking fabrics, a connection between said main shaft in said bed and said pinking cutter for positively rotating said pinking cutter and said co-operating rotary member, and means for adjusting the feeding movements of said pinking cutter independently of the feeding movements of said stitching mechanism, said pinking cutter being rotated step-by-step.

5. In a combined sewing and pinking machine having an oscillating looper adapted for movement transverse of the line of stitching, a bed having a main actuating shaft therein, an overhanging arm carried by said bed, a pair of cooperating rotary members positioned one above the other in spaced relation rearwards of the needle of the machine, the upper rotary member being adapted for pinking fabrics, means for regulating the pressure of the upper rotary member on the work, a connection between said main shaft in said bed and said pinking cutter for positively rotating said cutter and said co-operating rotary member, and means for adjusting the feeding movements of said pinking cutter independently of the feeding movements of said stitching mechanism, said pinking cutter being rotated step-by-step.

6. In a combined sewing and pinking machine having an oscillating looper adapted for movement transverse to the line of stitching, the combination of stitching mechanism designed to stitch straight line interlock stitching and comprising a plurality of needles, a rotary pinking cutter positioned with its cutting face parallel to the plane of the needles with the axis thereof rearwards of the needles, a looper-actuating shaft, a shaft mounted below said rotary pinker and having a cylindrical member mounted thereon and co-operating wth said pinking cutter, means for positively and concomitantly rotating said rotary pinking cutter and said lower rotary member, and means for adjusting the feeding movements of said pinking cutter independently of the feeding movements of said stitching mechanism, said pinking cutter being rotated stepby-step.

JOSEPH GALKIN. 

